"The word ghetto didn't even exist when this world was moving itself through history," Ms. A told Golam as she led him past a series of food vendors whose cheese stores perfumed the alley as did a couple of pie-makers and stalls selling fried fish. One very old fruit vendor was selling roasted chestnuts as his voice, teetering on the edge of complete exhaustion, slowly called out 'Roooooosted chestnuts...roooooosted chestnuts...rooooosted chestnuts.'"